How to Gather and Cook Wild Mushrooms
I grew up in a city. And I was raised by parents who grew up in cities. At no point did it occur to any of us to forego store bought mushrooms and instead to go out to the nearest woodland to gather and cook wild mushrooms. From a young age, I was conditioned to avoid them on pain of death. Not even figuratively. But literally: diarrhea, vomiting and then death. So I dutifully let them be.
I did have a few friends with parents from Poland who occasionally went out to forage for mushrooms. But this seemed suspicious to me. Very dangerous and not at all safe.
My first official foray into foraging for mushrooms happened when I was 20 years old, backpacking through Australia. An old hippie from Nimbin (if you know, you know) casually mentioned that the next day would be a good day for gathering blue meanies.
I asked him to elaborate and he told me: “The weather’s just right, mate. Head on out to a farmer’s field and they’ll be growing next to the cow patties. Free for the taking. They’re the kinda blue-like ones. Enjoy your trip!” So I did and I did. Looking back now, I can see several scenarios where that could have gone sideways for me. But all’s well that ends well, as they say.
circa 2002
Fast forward about ten years and I happened upon a man gathering mushrooms near Lac La Biche in northeastern Alberta. I introduced myself and asked him what he was doing. He told me he was from Poland (of course) and collecting Bolete mushrooms. I had a million questions for him but his English wasn’t so good and my Polish was non-existent so my many questions were left unanswered and he was allowed to carry on his merry way, with his walking stick and a string of drying mushrooms hanging from his pack.
Despite receiving no specific guidance, I was inspired. I gathered a handful of mushrooms that looked a bit like what he had and clumsily tried to string them together a bit like he’d done. But by the time I got back to my campsite, doubt started to creep in. And insects started to creep out. Did his Boletes have bugs in them too? Were these even Boletes? What is a Bolete, exactly? And how do you cook them so you don’t die in a pool of your own diarrhea and vomit? Being ten years wiser than that time in Australia, I hucked the mushrooms in the bush and decided to learn some things.
I took a course on mushroom gathering at the University of Alberta Botanic Garden, bought a Field Guide to North American Mushrooms at a garage sale and finally felt slightly more equipped to safely gather and cook wild mushrooms.
The course and the book were helpful, but nothing matches local wisdom. And trial and error. I’ve come back with a deflated ego and an empty basket on more than one occasion, but thanks to some trusted friends who have been willing to share tips, weather patterns to watch for and terrain to consider, I’ve now also had some success!
My Mother still likes to warn me about diarrhea, vomiting and death before I head out each time, but I’ve learned to shake that worry off and trust what I’ve learned. And I’m teaching my son how to do it too, which is a personal point of pride for me.
Morels grow on the forest floor, the spring after a summer wildfire. Forest fires are a natural part of our landscape in southern B.C., so you often don’t have to drive far to reach the nearest burned-out pine forest. The best time for it is when damp ground is warming up in the spring.
Bring a sharp knife, snacks, water and a basket. And ignore any rude comments from your husband about not everything needing to be a Pinterest moment.
Baskets are actually much better than plastic bags because they allow the mushrooms to breathe and their spores to fall back to the earth as you’re wandering. Thus helping the fungal population reestablish. And they’re also nicer for pictures.
A word of caution, while Morels are not the trippy kind of mushrooms, you may find yourself feeling a little like you’ve stepped into the fairy realm when you go out to gather them. Time runs at a different pace. The burned landscape gives off an otherworldly feeling. Your sense of direction vanishes. You emerge from the forest shocked at the hour, unsure of where you left the car and looking more animal than human with soot on your skin and scrapes on your arms and legs. But, once you relocate your car, your ego will soar. For you have gathered wild mushrooms. And now you will cook them. Like your ancestors did for generations beyond measure.
Here is a recipe for pan fried breaded morels to tantalise your tastebuds, courtesy of a lovely little website called The Great Morel.
King of the Plate
Serve the mushrooms with sourdough bread and butter and you have a meal worthy of royalty.
Ingredients:
Sliced Morels
1/2 cup flour mixed with some salt and pepper
4 Tbsp butter
- Put your seasoned flour into a plastic bag, then add your Morels and shake to coat.
- Melt butter in a cast iron skillet over medium heat (don’t overheat)
- Sauté mushrooms gently in butter, turning when needed. Be sure to give them time to brown nicely on each side.
- Remove from skillet, allow to rest on a paper towel and then add a little more salt and pepper to taste, if you wish.
About the author
Jessica Johnson runs a small, traditional Bed and Breakfast from a vineyard in the Similkameen Valley of British Columbia, Canada.
Raised to be a strong, independent career woman but now a vigneron’s wife and stay-at-home mom on a fledgling homestead, she is clumsily yet happily establishing roots in her new landscape.
An expert at almost nothing but curious about nearly everything, Jessica writes about her adventures in rural B.C. where she raises her son and other wild creatures and is learning the old ways to preserve and grow food.
